Lapho u-Alfred Philippe ethatha umhlalaphansi eTrifari ngo-1967, ngemuva kweminyaka ecishe ibe ngu-30 njengomklami wawo odumile, abaningi bazibuza ukuthi uTrifari wayezoqhubeka kanjani nerekhodi lalo lesikhathi eside lesikhathi eside sokufeza kwemfashini. Ukukhathazeka kwakungokoqobo. UPhilippe wayengumqambi omangalisayo futhi onethonya. Ngaphezu kwalokho, isimo sobucwebecwebe bemfashini maphakathi no-1960s saba nabantu abazibuza ukuthi ubucwebe bemfashini buzoqhubeka bube bukhulu futhi buyathengiswa njengoba bekunjalo iminyaka emibili iminyaka engama-40 (1930s-1960s) lapho ubucwebe kwakuyisidingo esidingekayo semfashini. Ngabe ubucwebe bemfashini buyohamba ngendiza yesandla, kanye isidingo kodwa manje sekubhekwa njengento ebhekwayo?
Ngemuva kwenkathi yezingxoxo zangaphakathi nangaphakathi, iTrifari yaphuma ijika, futhi, esikhundleni sokulwa nezitayela zamanje zemfashini, inkampani yethule imigqa emisha nabaqambi abasha. Lesi sinqumo sasibonisa ukuthi siwuwina, futhi le ndatshana igcizelela umnikelo wothando lweDiane. Uthando lwalungumdwebi osemncane ongagcini nje ngokugxeka idumela nokuthengisa kukaTrifari, kodwa futhi uyaqhubeka, kuze kube namuhla, ukuze aphile impilo enikelwe ku-ART.
Le ndatshana izohlola hhayi kuphela iminikelo yokuphila ye-Diane Love’s impilo yezobuciko, kodwa futhi nemiklamo yayo ye-Trifari, amanani akhulayo we-Diane Love Trifari (DLT), kanye nencazelo yezingcezu zobucwebecwebe eziye zabikwa kabi kuye.
Iminikelo yobuciko bothando sebeye yaqhubeka kuyo yonke impilo yakhe, impilo enezinto zobuciko. Waqala umsebenzi wakhe njengowesifazane osemusha, nemiklamo yayo eyigugu enikelwe nguBergdorf Goodman ngo-1969. UBergdorf wayevule ubucwebe lapho benwebeka khona esitolo ngokufaka ibhilidi ku-57th Street. Ube esechitha iminyaka emibili ngeTrifari, eqhubeka nokuvula isitolo sakhe esinjenge-madison avenue. Kungekudala ngemuva kwalokho, waba ne-boutique yasekhaya eBloomingdale, eklanyelwe izinto zokuhlobisa ze-mikasa, futhi wadala iqoqo lokuqoqa ekhaya losaziwayo. Ngemuva kokuvala isitolo sakhe eMadison Avenue, wazibophezela ekusebenzeni ngokugcwele njengomculi, aqhubeka nanamuhla. Ubhale izincwadi ezimbili, Izimbali zimnandi Ishicilelwe ngo-1973 ngeMacmillan, futhi Yebo / Cha Design: Thola isitayela sakho sokuhlobisa ngokuzivocavoca okudambisayo kanye neziboneloeshicilelwe ngonyaka ka-2000 nguRizzoli, mayelana nokuthi ungakuthola kanjani ukunambitheka nesitayela sakho. Zombili lezi zincwadi zingatholakala ku-Amazon ne-eBay (kodwa zinikeze kuphela).
Kuwebhusayithi yakhe, uNksz Love iyamemezela, “Ubuciko besilokhu ngingumngane wami wokuphila konke. Kungivumela ngenze noma yini engiyifunayo. Akusho lutho. Kunginika ikhefu lokuhlola noma ikuphi okuphakathi noma okungokwangempela – akukho lutho olungaphansi kwemikhawulo. ” Le ndlela ibonakele kuyo yonke impilo yakhe futhi ngokuqinisekile yabonakala ngesikhathi sakhe eTrifari.
Lapho ejoyina i-Trifari, wayenombono ocacile wobuciko. Usebenze eduze no-André Boef, umklami oyinhloko owaphumelela uPhilippe eTrifari’s Design Studio. UTrifari wabona ithalente lakhe futhi wayenokholo emibonweni yakhe emisha. Umsebenzi wothando weTrifari uhlala ngaphambi kwesikhathi sawo futhi uyaqhubeka nokubonga ngenani.
Eminyakeni yakhe emibili neTrifari, wadala imiklamo engaphezu kwe-100. Ubucwebe bakhe bukhona, ngaphandle kokungabaza, ukusikwa ngenhla nokunye. Imidwebo yakhe yobuciko be-antique inekhwalithi engaphelelwa isikhathi, idlulisa amandulo asendulo kanye nesimanje konke ngasikhathi sinye. Wayehlose ukwenza izingcezu zifanelwe umfazi kahle. Bamba ucezu lwe-DLT esandleni sakho, futhi uzizwa ikhwalithi yawo.
Ngenkathi eTrifari, amacebo akhe adinga ukwakhiwa kwamasu amasha wokuqomisana kanye nokusetshenziswa kwesandla okuhle kwezimpawu ze-koqweqwe lwawo imibala namatshe. Kokubili imiklamo yakhe ye-trifari kanye nemiklamo yayo yobucwebe obuyigugu boBergdorf Goodman ingabukwa kuwebhusayithi yakhe:
Ubucwebe bakhe be-trifari bathengiswa ezweni lonke, futhi wenza obala obala ukwethula iqoqo.
Umsebenzi wakhe olandelayo, oqhubeka nanamuhla, uyisibonelo esimangalisayo sokwakheka kobuciko, ukuhlala amandla, kanye nokuguquguquka kowesifazane oyedwa onethonya. Wayekhona, futhi, i-trailblazer kanye nokuphefumlelwa okuholayo kwabesifazane abaningi abeze ngemuva nje kwakhe, kuhlanganise nami.
Ukuxhumana kwami noNks. Uthando lwaqala ngoJanuwari 2024 Ngomusa waphendula umbuzo wami, futhi ambalwa.
Ngaqala ukubona ezinye izingcezu ebenginemibuzo ngazo. Ngifunde konke engingakuthola, nangemvume yakhe, ngithinte abathengisi ngobumnene lapho benza into engeyona into njengenye yayo. Kumuntu, wonke umuntu wayenomusa kakhulu futhi walungiswa ngokushesha ukufakwa kuhlu kwawo. Abaningi baphinde baveza isithakazelo emsebenzini wakhe futhi bangicela ukuba ngidlulisele imizwa yabo yokuthakazelela kuye.
Bekulula kakhulu ukufunda nganoma yimiphi iminikelo ye-DLT entsha ngokusebenzisa uhlelo lokusebenza lwe-GEM. I-GEM inethuluzi lokusesha elikhasa i-Intanethi nsuku zonke, lisesha wonke amawebhusayithi athandwayo wevintage (Etsy, eBay, Ruby Lane, Posphermark, nokunye okuningi), bese kuthumela i-imeyili yasekuseni ngalokho okutholakele. Lokhu kuyasiza kakhulu kulabo abafuna ukufinyelela kusenesikhathi ezintweni ezithile eza ezimakethe. Usetha amagama okusesha, futhi i-gem ikwazise lapho ivela. UGem wayebaluleke kakhulu emizamweni yami, ekuvumela ukuthi ngibone ngokushesha izinto ezingezinhle, bese ngixwayisa abathengisi.
Izingcezu ezimbili ze-DLT ze-DLT ezivame ukufakwa:
Isikweletu:
Isikweletu:
Lezi zingcezu ezimbili zobucwebecwebe yizibonelo ezithandekayo ze-trifari kepha aziwona ama-diane wothando. Zibhalwe ngokufanele, nguJennifer Schmid, kulezi zibonelo ezifakwe ngenhla.
Ngithole ngokushesha izinto ezimbili: 1) Abathengisi ngokungenacala, noma ngabe bathengisa ngokungeyikho, bachaza izinto njenge-DLT ngoba ngaphambili babezibone zibhalwe ngokungafanele ngaleyondlela, futhi 2) Angitholanga ama-Dlts angamanga noma wenkohliso. Lokhu kubona kokugcina kubalulekile, ngoba sesiqalile ukubona izingcezu ezithile ze-trifari ze-runcefeitfeit. AmaCopycats ngeke akwazi ukukhohlisa i-DLT ngoba ukukhiqizwa okuyinkimbinkimbi okudingekayo ukukopisha i-DLT kuyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu kumphikisi ukunqoba. Ikhophi elinjalo, uma lizamile, lingabonakala kalula.
Emakethe yanamuhla, noma yisiphi isiqeshana se-DLT sifunwa kakhulu, futhi lo mkhuba ukhule kakhulu kule minyaka embalwa edlule. Ngihlaziye ukuthengiswa kwezingcezu ze-DLT eminyakeni emithathu edlule (isikhathi eside kunazo zonke esinezinombolo eziqondile), futhi imiphumela ikhombisa ukuthandwa okuvuselelwe futhi okukhulayo kwezingcezu zakhe. Amanani aqageliwe akhuphuka phezulu.
Akunamasayithi amaningi ahlinzeka ngolwazi oluphelele ngamanani aqaphelekile. Imininingwane engcono kakhulu ivela e-Ebay Research (eyayaziwa njengeTerapeak), enikeza ithuba lokubukeza ukuthengiswa kwale minyaka emithathu edlule. I-eBay inokuthengisa okwanele ukuthola ukunemba kwanoma yiluphi ushintsho unyaka nonyaka. Ngaphezu kwalokho, izithombe noma izincazelo zisivumela ukuthi uqede isiqephu sasiyi-DLT ngempela hhayi ucezu olungaziwa. Izingcezu ezingezinhle zisuswe kunoma yikuphi ukuhlaziywa.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, inani elincane lezicupho zothando ze-trifari zithengisiwe endalini eminyakeni embalwa edlule, futhi amanani abonile azokhulunywa lapha.
Ngo-2022, kwathengiswa izingcezu eziyi-18 ze-DLT ku-eBay. Amanani asuka ku- $ 69 kuya ku- $ 895, ngentengo evamile yokuthengisa yama- $ 216. Abathengisi ababili abaphezulu babeyisongo sobuso beNoh ngo- $ 895, kanye nomgexo we-Shekmet we- $ 540. Into ethengiswa kakhulu kakhulu kwakuyisongo lezandla elicwengekileyo, elibona ukuthengisa okune. Lokhu kubheka ukuthengiswa kwaleyo nto kusuka ekubonakalweni kwayo kokuqala ekuqaleni ‘kuma-70s lapho kungumthengisi omuhle kakhulu wezinto zakhe. Ngo-2022, i-Clas Handsot isongo lalingaba nesilinganiso sama- $ 185. Emakethe yamanje ye-eBay, ucezu olufanayo luyathengiswa ngesilinganiso se- $ 506. Yebo, imakethe yokukhuphuka!
Faka izandla isongo, ngo-1971 (ucezu oluvame ukuthengiswa khona). Isikweletu:
Into enkulu kakhulu eyenzekile ngo-2023, lapho intengo ephakathi yezinto ezingama-28 ze-DLT ezithengiswa ku-eBay igxuma yaya ku- $ 539. Ukwanda kusuka ku- $ 216 ngonyaka we-2022 kuya ku- $ 539 ngo-2023 kwaba ukwanda okungu-150% – okuthile cishe okucishe kungazwakalanga kumakethe yobucwebe yemvunulo!
Izinto ezithengiswa kakhulu ngo-2023 zazingu-1971 Turtle Brooch ngo- $ 1,200, umgexo we-Sassanian wegolide wegolide ngo- $ 1,200, kanye nomgexo we-Shekmet we-Shekmet we- $ 1,000.
Ngonyaka olandelayo ka-2024, inani elijwayelekile lezinto zakhe ze-trifari landa futhi, futhi sabona ukwanda okungu-13%. Ngakho-ke, eminyakeni emibili, inani elijwayelekile elithengiswayo licishe lakhiwa kathathu, ukuze kukhule ngokuphelele ngo-181%. Izingcezu ezingamashumi amabili nesishiyagalolunye zithengisiwe ngo-2024, zisukela ngentengo kusuka ku- $ 147 kuya ku- $ 1,999.96, ngesilinganiso esingu- $ 608 ngasinye. Kwakungomunye unyaka okhulayo we-DLT!
Lezi zithombe ezilandelayo zibonisa izinto ezithengiswa ngentengo ephezulu kakhulu ngo-2024:
I-Luristan Double bird brooch, 1970: $ 924 (2024) Isikweletu: eBay
I-Shekmet Collar, 1970: $ 1,999.96 (2024). Isikweletu: eBay
Samurai Shakudo Watch Isongo: $ 1,275 (2024). Isikweletu: eBay
Eminyakeni emibili edlule, inani eliphakeme kakhulu le-DLT elithengisiwe lali- $ 895, okwamanje ngo-2024, ukuthengisa kwabona izinto eziyisikhombisa ziphezulu kwalelo nani. Lokhu kufaka phakathi umgexo we-Shekmet Collar ebhokisini layo langempela le-DLT, I-Emerald error Emerald cute collar umgexo, umgexo we-luristan wex imbuzi imbuzi, i-griffin panther enamaphiko e-brooch, i-luristan head bird bird brooch, i-samurai shukudo iwashi lezinyoni, kanye ne-bronze bronze. Ababili balawo masongo e-classing athandwa kakhulu ahlanganiswe ngo-2024, afinyelela ku- $ 199 ngalinye.
Hhayi amasayithi amaningi endali afaka amanani aqashelwe, kepha lokhu kuqala ukuguquka. I-RILLIPLEY EICTICTICTS, i-Premiere Reaction Reaction, kanye ne-Rago Auctions ifaka izibalo ezinje, futhi lezi zingosi zibonisa amanani alandelayo abonakele ezinto ze-DLT:
Umgexo weBacchus: Okthoba 2024: $ 750 (RIPLIPY)
Umgexo we-Roman Griffin: UJanuwari 15, 2024: $ 375 (RIPLYY)
Ikhanda eliphindwe kabili nge-brooch: Juni 2022: $ 300 (RIPLYY)
I-Classing Handsongo isongo: ngoJanuwari 2020: $ 225 (RIPLYY)
Umgexo wesithonjana saseRussia: Ephreli 2020: $ 500 (RIPLYY)
Umgexo we-Shekmet Collar: NgoFebhuwari 2022: $ 2048 (Rago)
Intengo ye-DLTS yamanje, esebenzayo yokuthengisa kwi-eBay averages $ 1,135.34, ephakeme kakhulu kunesilinganiso se- $ 608 edlule! Amanani ku-1stDibs, njengoba kulindeleke, ephakeme. Zonke ezinye izingosi zobucwebecwebe bevintage ziqhathaniswa namanani e-eBay, nge-eBay egijima ephakeme kakhulu kunabanye. Vele, siyazi ukuthi amanani athengisiwe aphansi kunentengo yezinto ezisebenzayo ezithengiswayo, ngakho-ke sizobheka lesi simo ukubona ukuthi amanani eqhubeka nokukhuphuka. Ngizogcina ithrekhi futhi ngivuselele imininingwane, kumazwana lapha, ekugcineni konyaka wekhalenda ngalinye.
Amanani wezinto zamanje ezithengiswayo zibonisa ukuthambekela okuphezulu, futhi zifaka le dlt enhle:
I-Bacchus ikhanda umgexo brooch: $ 2,600. Isikweletu:
Kungijabulele ukuthi izicucu eziningi ze-DLT, zikhombise kwiwebhusayithi yakhe, azizange zivele noma kuphi ukuze zithengiswe. Ngithembe, ngibheka ngokucophelela! Lezi zinto zizofunwa kakhulu. Ngizobe ngibheke ngabo (ikakhulukazi izingcezu zeScotland, eziseqoqweni laphakade lomnyuziyamu wezobuciko nokuklama ku-NYC), futhi ngikukhuthaza ukuba wenze okufanayo.
Ezinye zazo yilezi:
Ikhola yeScotland, 1972. Isikweletu:
Umgexo we-crescent moon collar, 1971. Isikweletu:
Isongo leScotland, 1972. Isikweletu:
Umgexo waseGibhithe oseGibhithe, ngo-1972. Isikweletu:
Ngiyabafuna! Ngifuna ukubabona! Angithi ?!
Ubuciko bothando lweDiane, nothando lwakhe lobuciko, luyaqhubeka nanamuhla. Kungakumangaza yini ukuthi uyazi ukuthi ungumculi we-cabaret futhi wabhala futhi wenziwe, nomlingani wakhe wokucula, umbukiso womculo onesihloko esithi Uthando online ngoMeyi 2019? Yebo, wakwenza, futhi isiqeshana se-cabaret yakhe singatholwa lapha:
Imizamo yakhe yamanje icishe igxile ngokuphelele ekwenzeni ama-collage amakhulu efomethi. Izibonelo zalokhu zingabonakala kuwebhusayithi yakhe futhi zikhonjiswe ngemibukiso eminingi.
Konke akwenzile, ezinsukwini zakhe zeTrifari ngo-’70 kuya ku-’72 futhi kuqhubeke kuze kube namuhla, kusho usitshela uthando lweDiane luholele impilo ethokozisayo nezobuciko. Ubuciko bakhe ‘buyingxenye “futhi buye bamsekela impilo yakhe yonke.
Ngenkathi emukele izindima njengomfazi nomama, imizamo yakhe yobuciko ihlangana nezilaleli ezibanzi, ikakhulukazi kubo bonke abalandeli beTrifari! Kunomoya wosuku lukaValentine lapho sethula le valentine ukuze sithande uthando. Uphile impilo emangalisayo, eyodwa yathi abaningi bethu abangafisa ngayo kuphela, futhi iphile ngokugcwele futhi kahle!
Ngiyabonga, UDiane Uthando!
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UTiane Uthando luyaqhubeka nokwamukela imibuzo nganoma yimuphi umsebenzi wakhe, kubandakanya nomsebenzi wakhe oyisisekelo njengoMklami Omncane eTrifari. Indlela engcono kakhulu yokumfinyelela ifomu lokubuza kwiwebhusayithi yakhe:
UDiane Uthando Ugqoke ikholaji ye-shekmet ngo-1971
UDiane Uthando Namuhla!
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